Everybody photographs the top. The underside is what you are buying.

Why we exist

Three things decide whether a picnic blanket works, and none of them is visible in the photograph everybody buys from.

**What the backing is, and how it is attached.** Not the word on the label — the film. And whether it is laminated across the whole face or sewn on only around the perimeter. A perimeter-stitched backing separates in use, water travels between the two layers, and the blanket bags out. You can test it on any sample by pinching the middle and seeing whether the layers slide independently.

**Whether it survives being folded.** A picnic blanket is creased in the same four places every time it is put away for its whole life. A cheap film work-hardens and cracks along those lines, fastest in cold weather, and then the blanket leaks in a straight line right across the middle. We specify backings for flex, and we build the strap so it gets rolled rather than folded.

**Whether the face lets go of the ground.** Cut grass and dry sand fall off a tight, low-pile face with one shake and bed permanently into a brushed or looped one. That is a yarn and finish decision made before anything is bonded, it costs nothing, and nobody quotes it.

What we actually make

Bonded waterproof-backed picnic blankets. Roll-ups with a strap and handle positioned for a roll rather than a folded square. Oversized family, event and outdoor-cinema sizes with lapped, sealed seams instead of stitches straight through the film. Traditional woven cotton rugs, backed or unbacked. Beach and sand-shake blankets. And branded gift and giveaway ranges built to the same standard as the retail products.

Every one of them has the backing film, how it is bonded, and the care instruction stated on the quote and sewn into the blanket.

What we do not make

Fleece throws, sherpa blankets, woven jacquard throws and indoor blankets. Poncho blankets and anything worn. Towels. All different products with different construction, and there are suppliers who do nothing else.

And we will not describe a sheet of PEVA sewn on around the edge as a laminate, or call anything waterproof that we would not sit on ourselves after an hour on wet grass.

The two tests you can do in a shop

**Pinch the middle.** Take a handful of the blanket in the centre and feel whether the face and the backing move as one piece. If they slide against each other, the backing is attached at the edge only and it will separate.

**Look at the folds.** On a blanket that has been in use, hold it up to a light and look along the crease lines. If the film has gone pale, crazed or split along them, that is the failure mode, and it will already be leaking there.

Neither takes thirty seconds, and between them they tell you more than any specification sheet in this category.

How we price

No dollar figures on this site. Price moves with the size, the backing film and its weight, the face, the seam construction and the quantity — and the backing is a smaller share of the unit cost than most people expect and essentially all of whether the blanket works. Send the details and a real quote comes back the same day, with a lowest-price guarantee if you are already holding a cheaper one. Ask that supplier what their film is and whether it is bonded.

On branding

A printed face, an embroidered corner, or a woven label on the strap.

A full-face print is the one that carries across a field, which is what an event or a festival wants. A woven label on the strap reads as a product rather than as merchandise, which is usually what makes somebody keep bringing it out — and on a gift, being kept is the entire point.

One caution specific to this product: decoration must not perforate the waterproof layer. Anything stitched through a bonded blanket puts holes in the film, so embroidery goes on the strap, the hem or an applied patch rather than through the middle of the field. We will show you both options on the mockup and say which one we would choose.

How we work

Who we serve